Weird this - I have been surfing for years - never particularly well but have always enjoyed my sessions. I taught my son to surf when he was 8 or nine - when he was 11 he started teaching me - he is now 22 - My enthusiasm has blown hot and warm over the years - never cold just other pastimes have taken precedence sometimes - Then tonight I read the Jerry Lopez interview on this site's home page www.standuppaddlesurf.co.uk - and what he says felt very familiar - sure there is a mountain of skill difference between us and I would never presume to be considered in remotely the same league as him or the people he mentions - but the reasoning behind can be similar regardless of skill levels - as can the personal sense of achievment and satisfaction.
I always felt like I was just missing something with my regular surfing - never quite reaching my potential despite having some 'epic sessions' (and some monumental crap-outs). I was always looking for that 'magic-board' that would sort it all out. Well now I have found it, except that it's a style not a board. My son thinks I'm nuts - but even he recognises that I am surfing more - way more and that's the point.
This Blog has MOVED - Move over to my new Blog site here SUP SURF MACHINES There will be NO more posts at this site. It will be kept as an archive only.
4 years ago