Weird this - I have been surfing for years - never particularly well but have always enjoyed my sessions. I taught my son to surf when he was 8 or nine - when he was 11 he started teaching me - he is now 22 - My enthusiasm has blown hot and warm over the years - never cold just other pastimes have taken precedence sometimes - Then tonight I read the Jerry Lopez interview on this site's home page www.standuppaddlesurf.co.uk - and what he says felt very familiar - sure there is a mountain of skill difference between us and I would never presume to be considered in remotely the same league as him or the people he mentions - but the reasoning behind can be similar regardless of skill levels - as can the personal sense of achievment and satisfaction.
I always felt like I was just missing something with my regular surfing - never quite reaching my potential despite having some 'epic sessions' (and some monumental crap-outs). I was always looking for that 'magic-board' that would sort it all out. Well now I have found it, except that it's a style not a board. My son thinks I'm nuts - but even he recognises that I am surfing more - way more and that's the point.
This Blog has MOVED
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Move over to my new Blog site here SUP SURF MACHINES
There will be NO more posts at this site. It will be kept as an archive
only.
11 years ago
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