Usually I get one chance a week in the winter to get a surf in - Sunday. Thats partly why I thought that paddle surfing would be right for me. I was growing middle aged man boobs at a rate of knots and was always looking for 'the right surfing conditions'. The effect of this was the conditions were seldom perfect and my man boobs were getting to be.
So for my wifes' sake I got a paddle board (she'll appreciate me more if I'm buff) and I'm on it every Sunday (my paddle board!) - regardless of conditions. I didn't expect to stop surfing - but for the moment I have - this is more physical - more fun - more waves - just more everything. And it's in my wifes' best interest. Result.
So having spent all week cuing up for Sunday - toning down the copius amonts of Saturday night red wine in readiness for an early start - here I am standing at the Bluff (Hayle Rivermouth) thinking 'Thats big' and it was. A few hasty phone calls and we re-arranged to meet up at Carbis Bay to Surf Hawk's. We being Gavin and myself on the standups and Shane, Andru and Red going in off the Rocks at the break.
Nice little paddle round the point and 'bloody hell' there were loads of people already in. 'We are going to be popular' I thought.
Actually there was plenty of room and we paddled towards the rivermouth taking plenty of long empty waves en route. I being greedy was hanging onto the waves like each was going to be my last and then paying the price getting caught inside several times. The waves were chest high with the odd head high set - and so clean. We both had plenty but very soon it dawned on me that Gavin was on fire - every time I looked around he was into another. I would get caught inside - he would be charging down the line. I paddled out to the break - he would be sliding down another clean green wall. You could get a tan off the grin on his face.
Shane was also having a field day - the waves on the inside would ramp up super quick and Shane was taking advantage of them.
Red and Andru were also getting their share but I have to say apart from one very stylish guy on an orange long board I thought we (actually Gavin) had the best of it.
In hindsight it's possible that he only caught one wave - he just stayed on it for the whole session.
I had some very nice - very late take-offs almost paddling into the backdoor before setting up the right. I seem to be too dominant on my right side paddling something I am going to have to address as it sends me left on a right - if that makes sense. I know what I mean.
Today also marked a moment of realisation regarding the Jimmy Lewis - there were times when I just couldn't 'get it round' fast enough. Shane also spotted the the board was becoming a limiting factor. Hell can't complain but at the same time I'm looking forward to trying the Starboard 9'8"
Bring it on.
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4 years ago