The water is warming up - can't say that I've actually been cold all winter though. I have not been out of my summer Billabong (cheapie)but this week saw me loose the rashie and the boots - yippee - like sex without a condom - class. So that was nice!
So there was a couple of evening knee high sessions 'out the front' of Gwithian car park one of which was just one of those 'Hell we are here lets do it' things when normally you just wouldn't go in - part of the sesh saw Steve from Sunset Surf lend his board to a lass who was longboarding. She loved it and her pal was eyeing up her mates progress to the extent that I thought Steve was going to loose his board for an hour. Sooo I lent her mine - 10 minutes and she was doing it - on waves - fantastic. But this meant that I had to ride 'Tinkerbell' for 20 minutes. 'Tinkerbell' was / is a 9'2" x 22" Pink lonboard. Looked so narrow when I got on but suprise suprise first wave I was off - it was so easy. I have not been on a prone surfboard since October. Hell It was fun - Sssshhh don't tell anyone.
I had an early morning (Sunday I think) surf with Gavin)- looked bad - wasn't good but was worth having - and ended up with one of the longest nose rides ok so it was a cheater five but hell I was stoked. Ended up with a three hour session in the morning and almost the same in the evening - Monday I blanked but I was so beat I didn't sleep well. Fantastic.
Sorted my board store out on Monday and F*5&%ing - bl$6dy - sh"7 - Bas7&££ing C8$k s&*king p6££!!!! I found a ding in the rail of my Starboard. God knows whats happening - it seems that I only have to fart in the vicinity of the board and the paint cracks. Might be me but I thrashed about on the Jimmy Lewis for months with hardly a mark.
Heh Ho. If anyone actually reads this and has a sport/tuf/deck/skin/organ/bollox/proper board let me know what they think. Perhaps I'm heavy handed with it but I just use it like any of my other boards.
I also have some foot impresions on the deck - that,s down to me being a fatty though - my ULI gets rammed up the beach without a mark. Am I whinging???
(I thought it prudent to ergh Moderate my rant a bit the board has to be 'dung'!! to be dinged and the fact remains - it's a stunning board plus it looked a bit harsh when I sobered up - apologies)
Family stuff/sh17 happening all for wrong reasons - that's crap as well - surfing suffers along with everything else - priorities. Next few days are not looking particularly fantastic on the wave front.
Come on people engage with this - it helps everyone hungry for information.
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4 years ago