God I love lighter evenings - seem to be getting more than my fair share of waves this week - Rush home from work, in the water by 6.15 and paddle away until almost 9pm. Fantastic. Been going to Pete's Point mainly because the tides have been late evening highs, (springs) and there is always a bit of shelter from the wind under the cliff. Bonus factor is that there is always fewer people due to the yomp across and down the cliff.
Really getting to grips with the board now, every time seems better than the previous and my tolerance of poor conditions seem to be increasing. Gavin has been 'off it' a bit recently so arranged to borrow the 9'0 demo board to refuel his stoke. We paddled it out for the first time into a crowded middle beach break with a howling 20mph 'cross off, shore wind. This was not shaping up to be fun. How wrong can you be the waves were steep and the tide was pushing up the beach - we had our moments, just staying on the boards was a result and paddling into the wind was VERY hard but we both scored waves, not dozens but those we had were soooo good.
We swapped boards and I wobbled about on the 9'0 - stability at rest was minimal under way she was fine and turned at will, dropping into a wave at the last minute was a real hoot. I am a fairly lazy person and have gotten used to the 9'8, the 9'0 was harder work for me - the conditions were grim but I felt a bit more comfy on mine. Gavin seemed to get the bit between his teeth though.
From being fairly crowded most people got out around 8pm - the wind had dropped a bit and I stayed on until almost 9pm. Great fun.
Saturday evening the wind had dropped significantly and the swell had built. I had Pete's point pretty much to myself. This was just one of those sessions - I hate to use the word 'Epic' but it was Epic.
This morning (Sunday) I met Gavin at Gwithian at 8.45 and we toddled off to Pete's again with the 9'0. Although it looked shite it cleaned up really well and we were both on fire (relative term) - I was surfing better than I have ever surfed I think. I have some dodgey video but as I don't seem to be able to work out how to make the last one work it might be a while before anyone see's it, plus with the now much improved camera mount (bungee corded onto my belt) I have 2 minutes of surfboard in shot. Zero perspective of waves due to the camera hanging low. It's getting there. OOps here it goes and . . . . cue music
Music is by the Jesus and Mary Chain - top stuff!
Again we swapped boards - The 9'0 is no doubt the better surf board although I think that both boards are limited by their width and as a result I have a tendency sometimes to catch the outside rail in the steeper sections of some waves. I also saw Gavin do this once.
Gavin got totally dialled with the board this session - no prizes for guessing which one is going to live with Gavin on a more permanent basis.
We surfed on until almost 12 pretty much on our own - looking over to Godrevy we could see that it was rammed - nice.
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3 years ago