We have been so lucky with the waves this month - not huge but pretty consistant making for some great sessions. Conditions have varied between a steady waist to chest high and generally clean. This has allowed me to get some great board time on the Naish. Tonight it showed. Smell that? It's me oooozing surfsmug.
I had planned on giving it a miss tonight as the winds were forecast to go north easterly (bang onshore)and freshen to 20-24mph.
4.38pm I get a picture text from Gavin. It was clean and building. Last nights session at Pete's was so good I decided to get down there again asap after work in the hope of resuming where I left off last night. It's the pig in me I suppose.
Gav's text piccy - looking really nice - it didn't stay like that for long!!!
Gavin was already in and the waves in front of the car park were, lets say, impressive.
I was getting changed a guy pulls up and beeps his horn - 'still light and too early for doggin' I thought and it's Ash and his mate that we met at Lafitenia in France last October - Small world.
Only one board, decision made, in the van and after a quick change I was trotting off down the track to Pete's.
It was clean, but only between the waves - outside was quite choppy and getting steadily worse BUT I seemed to be coping with it. I'm sure that my efforts at staying topside resembled my amazing dance moves - you've seen them before but I don't get out that often.
I know, I have no shame - But tonight I was staying upright and catching waves - and having a total ball. It was hard work and my knees, calves and thighs bear testament to it but so much fun.
One thing - quick confession here - I got all righteous the other day about not bailing my board in order to preserve my leash and not treat it as a retreival tool. Tonight after getting caught inside I bailed and not just once or twice. Sorry guys - I'll work on it.
There I feel better now that I have got that off my chest.
If, sorry BIG IF, anyone is still reading this, drop by pull up a chair, tell me all about it - at least say hello.
This Blog has MOVED - Move over to my new Blog site here SUP SURF MACHINES There will be NO more posts at this site. It will be kept as an archive only.
4 years ago