Just finished shivering on Sunday when Gav's text came through - 'Come on milky eyes - give us a go on your board' well something like that. It was nearly 2pm and with only a couple of hours of light left we met in the car park at Perranuthnoe. Still pretty busy but lot's of people getting out.
The wave was clean, waist to chest high on the sets and quite punchy with the pushing tide. It always seems to be steeper faces on the south coast. It was also a damn site warmer than my morning session.
I wasn't putting on much of a show doing my best to avoid the surfer's - I'm never comfortable in crowds. I had a couple of half decent waves but as the two main peaks were packed I stayed in the dead zone in the centre where the rides were way too short to make anything much of them. Still board time is board time.
Gavin had a quick bash - I think he was quite impressed it certainly ruined the next few waves for him when he got his Starboard back.
Another couple of guys came in on their C4's and I followed them into the quiet corner where we had a few waves to ourselves. Both looked pretty smooth on their 10'6's getting in nice and early - while I struggled. It was one fellows 2nd session - respect.
I made a little mental note for next time - bigger centre fin while I get used to it - it seems to have worked for me in the past by just slowing the board up to the tipping point a little bit. It is manageable and easier than I first found my BK pro however conditions were good and I'd like to think that I've improved a bit (as far as balance is concerned anyway).
So that's it - hopefully get in next Sunday then into the holidays and grab a few more sessions before packing the ULI up for Costa Rica. Now I wander if I can persuade Jim form Uli to lend me the new superlight surf model . . . . .
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3 years ago